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Flavorful Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani along with So Much More: A Historic Indian City Secures a Place on the UNESCO Culinary List.

Aromatic rice dish cooking using the traditional Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is simmered on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.

Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.

The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.

An International Accolade

Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".

The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.

Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.

"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
Tender kebabs being served
Lucknow is renowned for its succulent kebabs.

A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine

The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.

These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.

But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.

A Diverse Culinary Landscape

Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.

The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.

Frothy dessert Makkhan Malai
The city showcases special treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a one-of-a-kind frothy dessert, in the winter.

Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries

Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.

In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.

In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Iconic tea stall offering masala chai
A renowned tea stall is known for its milky spiced tea.

Preserving Tradition for the Future

The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.

On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are unwilling to take up the art.

A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.

The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.

JR
The writer

Jason Randolph

Eleanor is a historian and consultant specializing in British monarchy and heritage.

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